As K-pop initiated its golden age in the international market, the industry faces growing controversies, especially from its increasingly diverse fan base. One of the major concerns of some international fans is that the K-pop idols are “whitewashed:” meaning that K-pop idols are being forced to match the Western—specifically Caucasian—complexion. Such a claim emerges from the K-pop industry and Koreans’ exceptional preference for “white and flawless skin.” For instance, many K-pop idols’ skin colors in media are edited to look whiter and brighter, and the idols are passionate about keeping their skin fairer with make-up, skincare, and therapy. However, while it is undeniable that K-beauty standards emphasize whiter skin tones, such a trend does not originate from Western influence, nor does it imply racism or colorism; rather, it is rooted in Korea’s unique cultural and historical context.
To understand the origins of this preference, it’s crucial to differentiate between the Korean ideal of “white skin” and the Western notion of “Caucasian” white skin. The Korean view of the ideal “white skin” focuses on light skin that glows like a pearl with a flawless and plump texture, while the “white skin as part of race distinction” does not necessarily involve such characteristics. In fact, records from the Chosun Dynasty describe the Western merchants’ skin with terms like “hong-in (redmen)” or “myeon-cheol (iron-face),” suggesting that the Western white skin was viewed as “light in color but easily reddened and rusty.” This presents a perceivable equivocation between the Korean and Western “white skins.”
Then, why do Koreans and K-pop idols prefer such white skin? One of the functional reasons is that fairer skin better emphasizes other facial features. Since one of the K-pop idols’ priorities is to look good on camera, making facial features stand out with contour and color is essential. A contour works better with a fairer skin than with a slightly darker skin tone, contrasting the facial features that need to be emphasized with the rest of the face. Also, since Koreans tend to use more reserved and skin-toned colors such as beige and pink in makeup, a fairer skin tone is important to help those colors stand out and add a natural vivacity to the face. For instance, Taeyeon, a member of SNSD, is known for being able to pull off a diverse spectrum of styles and make up due to her clear and white skin tone.
Moreover, the partiality of white skin is due to its historical symbolism of wealth and status. Korea had been an agricultural society for thousands of years, and untanned skin conveyed that the possessor did not have to work in fields under the raging sun. Also, fairer skin suggested enough wealth for the possessor to eat with a balanced diet and nutrients, so having white and untanned skin indicated the wealth and status of the possessor and had been the standard of beauty throughout history. As such, the K-beauty standard of “white skin” has its own cultural and historical reasons beyond Westernization.
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